Red Engine Lights : What to Do

What may sound incredible is that many people have no idea what to do when the engine light comes on. Random surveys in the past have revealed that many drivers are clueless. Many drivers have little or no idea about what the light is trying to indicate or how one should respond.

Dashboard lights always flicker for a few seconds and then disappear. The majority of drivers pay no heed to these lights or when they do notice the light, no action is taken. However, all drivers should know and understand what a flashing engine light means.

There are countless anecdotal stories of what drivers have done to their cars when the engine light has come on- and each time the end result has been a disaster. Many drivers have different ideas as to why an engine light comes on. The reasons vary from low oil pressure, overheated engine, car running low on gas, diminished battery power, open hood or car door, malfunction of head lights and so on. It is imperative that all drivers sit down and read their car manual at least once in their life time. All drivers should become familiar with lights on the dashboard, especially the engine light. One can get a brief idea about the different lights on the dashboard by turning the key on/engine-off position.

When an engine light comes on, it will either blink or stay steady, depending on the situation. In any case whenever a light is on, the vehicle should be taken to a mechanic to be checked out. In general, a blinking light signals a more critical problem which requires immediate attention.

In cars built over the last decade, a blinking light more often than not indicates engine misfiring which is associated with spilling of unburnt fuel into the exhaust system. This event has been known to cause severe damage to the catalytic converter, which can prove to be a very expensive car repair.

Anytime an engine red light comes on, one should immediately slow down and have the car checked out as soon as possible. If the light is constant, the problem can wait but the car still needs to be checked out as soon as possible.

Many modern cars of today have built-in computers which often try to recompense whenever there is an engine problem. A flashing engine light is not always associated with immediate problems with the car- the only obvious observation may be a decrease in the fuel mileage and/or emission of high levels of hydrocarbons. In some cases, the car’s computer may automatically reduce the power in order to limit the car damage.
Anytime a driver ignores that engine light, he/she is potentially hurting both the car and his/her pocket.

If the check-engine light comes on, here are some tips on what you should do:
- Always check for things like low oil pressure or overheating of the engine. In such a case, you should pull over and shut the engine off as soon as you can.
- Sometimes the light may be due to a simple thing like a loose gas cap. So tighten the gas cap and see if the light resets. Some cars may have a separate indicator for a loose gas cap.
- When the engine light comes on or blinks, slow down and determine if the car’s performance has been affected. The most important point is to reduce power and stress on the car. If you are towing a trailer, it would be a good idea to stop and have the car checked out as soon as possible.
- The last thing you should do when an engine light comes on is to go for an emissions test. An illuminated engine light is a definite sign that your car is not road worthy. In most states, an on-engine light is an automatic failure.

One should never ignore the engine light; you could end up damaging expensive equipment which will definitely cost you a lot of money to fix. If you are lucky and are prompt in your response, the only adverse effects will have been a poor gas mileage and contamination of the environment with some hydrocarbons

Stumble It!

Is quality auto repair service a myth?

The good ole days of auto repair
My first car was a 1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle. It ran forever, getting me to summer jobs and a college campus.

Yea, Volkswagen makes a great car. Even the old Beetle. But what a godsend it was to have a reputable auto mechanic at a corner Exxon station. He had no problem working on the VW, finding whatever parts were needed, patching it up quickly for a reasonable price.

Remember when there were mechanics at the corner gas station? If you don't, then you probably don't know what an LP is, a turn table or an 8-track or cassette tape.

When I was a teen, the corner gas station was a place to fill up. But many were much more than that, complete with repair bays that smelled of used oil and a car or two up on a lift. You felt reasonably confident that your car would be taken care of and repaired right the first time. Yes, today things are much different. So much technology has been stuffed into todays cars that you practically need a degree from MIT to fix it.

Finding the gem takes a little effort
For me and my Beetle, my mechanic was great. He greeted me by name and took the time to talk to me. For my VW, the corner gas station kept me on the road. Today, not so much. The corner gas station is gas and gas only. Oh, and the home of the 64 ounce soda. Not the place to get your car repaired.

Here's a few tips to finding a reputable repair shop:

• Check the Better Business Bureau.


• Ask friends and family who they use for auto repairs.


• Visit shops in your area. Are they willing to spend a few minutes and talk to you? If not, move on.


• Trust your gut. Don't use a shop if it doesn't feel right.


• All shop charges should be readily available or clearly posted.


• Take advantage of sites where people rate businesses, such as Kudzu.com.

Maintain the relationship, they'll maintain your car
The small, independent repair shop is far and few between. Take the time to find one. If you build a relationship with a trustworthy shop, do all you can to maintain it. In today's economy, there's less of a chance of you buying a new car and more likely you'll be holding on to your current car longer than you thought. Keeping it maintained will pay off, even if it's a high mileage car.

A healthy relationship with a trustworthy repair shop will work wonders for you, your car and your budget.

Andy Mrozinski

Stumble It!

Regular Tire Maintenance Basics

Most car owners neglect their tires. Tires are the only physical part of the car that touch the ground and play a vital role in handling, braking and safety of the vehicle. Tires must be regularly checked not only for air pressure but for general wear and tear. Regular checks are easy and can help you save money and increase safety of the car.

How to assess tires

Assessing tires requires visual inspection on a regular basis. However, it is essential that one get acquainted with what a normal tire looks like before making an assessment. Every car comes with a spare tire and one should look at it to have some idea what a normal tire looks like. The things to look out for in a tire are the following:

Look at the sides and assess for cracks, rips or cuts in the sidewalls. Sometimes you may see large tears at the sides or even find a nail stuck inside the tire.

Check for irregular tread. This often occurs due to uneven inflation, misaligned wheels, spoiled tires or problems with suspension.

Sometimes the tread is extremely worn-out. This is mostly due to aging. The newer tires all have a tread wear indicator bar running across the middle. The minimum allowable tread depth for safe driving is 1/16-inch. If you notice that the tread has reached to this level, it is time to get new tires. One can even buy tread wear gauges but most people fail to use them regularly and are not worth the expense.

When servicing your car, it is important to ensure that the tires are properly balanced. Balancing tires evenly will ensure that the wheel and rim weight are equally distributed as they rotate. Shimmying is often the result of unbalanced tires.

Asides from tire balancing, wheel alignment should be a regular part of scheduled car service. Wheel alignment is important for prevention of uneven wear on tires. It improves car performance and allows for better handling of the vehicle around corners and during braking. The end result is a much longer life of your tires. It is a good idea to get wheel alignment performed whenever you purchase new tires.

For those who want to asses tread wear, simply insert a penny into a tire’s groove with Lincoln's head facing towards the tire. If you are able to see the top of Abe's head, your tread is worn out.

Sometimes you may see uneven bulges on the side of the tire. This is a sign that must be heeded. Your car tire must be replaced immediately. The bulges are usually due to weakening of the tubing inside and can lead to a sudden tire rupture.

Tire rotation is an important aspect of maintenance. Tires should be rotated every 10,000 kilometers. The aim of tire rotation is to achieve a more uniform wear on all tires on the vehicle.

Sometimes when you are driving, you may feel excessive vibration. Tire vibrations may signal a misaligned wheel, a bent wheel or there may be internal tire damage. Vibration while driving should not be ignored. Always get the car checked out immediately.

The Problem of under inflation

Driving a car with under-inflated tires is a major cause of tire failure. Tire inflation can never be assessed visually. It must be assessed with a pressure gauge. Under inflated tires are not only prone to damage and failure, but also lead to higher fuel costs by as much as 3 to 5¢ per gallon.

Tire-Inflation Maintenance Tips

Buy a tire gauge and make an effort to monitor the tire pressure at least once a month. These gauges only cost $ 3-$ 6.

To determine the recommended tire pressure, look at the placard in the car located either on a doorjamb, the fuel-filler door, or on the inside of the glove-compartment lid. All tires have an imprint saying “maximum inflation pressure"- this number is inaccurate and should generally not be relied upon. All cars have a spare tire and one should make sure that it is inflated to the pressure specified on the placard—usually 60 psi.

True pressure of a tire is best measured when it is cold. If the car has been driven for a mile or two, the heat will increase the pressure and give you an artificial reading.

Visually inspect your tires on a regular basis. If you note any of the above warning signs, have a professional inspection performed.

The Motachanic

Stumble It!

Buying a Used Car: Dealer vs. FSBO

I’ve purchased a lot of cars over the years. At last count I’ve owned close to 50 different cars and motorcycles, most of which were purchased used. Ok, I have a problem, I’ll admit it. I’m a car nut and like to experience different cars, I’m fickle. Yet it has not been entirely as crazy as it sounds. With only a few exceptions (Saabs, mostly) I’ve been able to buy these cars, drive them for a while, then sell them later for about what I bought them for.

Clearly, there are advantages to buying used rather than new. Primarily these are monetary: price (buy a car you could not afford new a few years later) and the related depreciation (most of the hit is taken during the first few years, so your ownership costs don’t include this big hit). The downsides are the potential lack of a factory warranty, fewer finance options (there are usually more financing options for new cars like cheap/free financing and leasing) and the fear of buying someone else’s problem vehicle.

The financing issue is becoming a bigger issue these days. The tight credit markets mean that peer to peer sales are often unfinanceable… even with good credit it is increasingly difficult if not impossible to secure a loan to buy a used car from a private party seller (aka For Sale by Owner or FSBO).

That issue aside, and hopefully it’s just a short-term problem, I should say that I really prefer to buy my used cars directly from the previous owner. I really don’t understand why anyone would buy a used car from a dealer unless it was a certified pre-owned car with a serious extended warranty. But dealers usually ask for a hefty premium for these… enough that if it concerns you there are plenty of aftermarket extended service agreements available for a price.

Of course, my position is highly biased by my passion for cars. I am willing to take time to find the right vehicle and I find the hunt entertaining in itself. So, why buy from a FSBO rather than a dealer?
It comes down to information. I like to know who owned the car before me. I like to know how he or she took care of it, maintained it, washed it, and drove it.

I bought my first used car during high school, I think it was about 1986. I visited some dealers and looked at ads in the local paper (remember those?). I ended up looking at a few cars but one really got my attention. It was not that it was the hottest car; it was a 1981 Celica coupe, about 80,000 miles on the clock and in very clean condition. But what really struck me was the owner. He was a surgeon who drove the car through his residency and now that he was making some coin decided to buy himself a brand new Saab Turbo. His garage looked like an operating room in its cleanliness. Next to the Celica was a beautifully restored 1955 T-Bird with the hard top in a hoist on the ceiling. He provided a binder showing fastidious maintenance like oil changes every 2,500 miles since new. The car was spotless inside and out. I just had a good feeling about it. I ended up buying it and driving it until 140,000 miles without a failure. My sister, on the other hand, liked my car and went out and bought another Celica of the same vintage and had nothing but problems with it. The previous owner had no maintenance records, smoked like a chimney, and generally wasn’t a car person. You can imagine that her experience was very different than mine because she ignored the warning signs.

Since then, I’ve really tried to pay attention to a car’s ownership history and this strategy has served me well. The primary reason I don’t like buying from a dealer is that they often take that aforementioned book of maintenance records and throw it in the trash. Case in point is my most recent purchase.

I was looking for a relatively rare model, a 1994-5 Mercedes E320 Cabriolet. There were some examples popping up for sale on Craigslist and eBay every so often. One happened to be for sale at a local Mercedes dealer who reportedly took it in on trade. I checked the car out and it looked very nice, with moderate mileage, flawless interior, and a very nice exterior. It drove like a new car despite having about 70k miles on the clock as one would expect of a Benz from that era. However, they had NO maintenance records available despite the fact that the car had been owned by one person since new. I can just imagine the records that the previous owner must have handed over to the dealer when he traded it in.

CarFax verified the ownership history story I was given. Normally, when buying a car with potentially devastating repair costs I like to get an independent professional inspection by a marque expert. Of course, as a franchised dealer they wouldn’t allow me to do so and instead pointed to their “120 point used car inspection.” I knew that the car had been on their lot for some time and decided to go through with the purchase as the price was the same as I would have paid a private party for a car in the same condition.

To be fair, I didn’t get ripped off or anything. The car has been just fine for the 5 months I have had it. This past weekend I did have a radiator hose burst, an unforeseeable failure and only a $12 part with no damage done. However, if had purchased the car from a private party and had known that the hoses hadn’t been replaced in 15 years I would have gone through and replaced them upon purchasing the car as I have on my other purchases. I always budget $500-$1000 for a solid going-through to take care of small repairs and a for a comprehensive maintenance session like hoses, belts, brake fluid, coolant, oil change, etc. However, since I bought the car from a franchised dealer and had received a number of promises about their reconditioning processes I skipped this usual step. My fault, no doubt.

In most cases, you also have to pay a premium to a dealer… after all they bought the car from an auction or from the previous owner and are marking it up. I just like to skip this step as I don’t find that it adds any value to me. If I buy a used car with no warranty and something breaks two days later the dealer is simply not going to remember my name any more than if I had bought it from the previous owner.

In summary, the benefits to buying from a private party include increased information about the vehicle’s past, maintenance records, an increased ability to get an independent inspection, and a lower price. Buying from a dealer potentially saves some time hunting for the car and gets you increased access to financing. Granted, this alone may be a deal-breaker but usually does not justify the increased expense. Ok, dealers, let me have it, I am sure you can identify some other benefits I have overlooked but my advice to friends and family is to search FSBO listings, get a professional pre-purchase inspection, and budget for a thorough preemptive maintenance session.

Steve Haas

Stumble It!

Buy Used :: Avoid Abused

Recently there was a repeat showing of Top Gear on BBC America about the Honda Civic Type R that was updated for the UK market in 2007. It reminded me of how a slightly used older generation of the same model can be a better investment and even a better drive but it is also important it is to take care to have a used car inspected by a trust worthy 3rd party inspector.

In our relevant tale of the 2001 Honda Civic Type R vs. the 2007 Honda Civic Type R, the 2007 did well in terms of its power, speed, etc but had some flaws in handling & finish. The 2007 was about £17,000.00 while its 2001 predecessor could be had for a handy £10,000.00 with reasonable mileage. Considering that the spoiler on the 2007 was right in the line if sight in the rear view mirror (just like the 2009 Nissan 350Z NIZMO's spoiler), that could be a deal breaker for some buyers looking for a sporty car. Also, a 2001 has gone through the biggest loss in depreciation while the 2007 will dump about 40% in the first 18 months. So... buy the 2001, right?

Well, don't be so fast, Speedracer! There are many things to consider when buying used and especially with cars that have a tendency (ahem- just speculating here) to be involved in street racing.

Newer cars that tend to be tuners like the Type R may appear to be well cared for on the surface but often they are driven hard regardless of the age of the previous owner (but lets be real- they tend towards the younger and younger thinking crowd).

Hire a 3rd party inspector to do a full check

• Accidents will be found
• Original parts will be checked
• Non-original parts will be listed

Lets put it like this:

You find a gorgeous 350z that (you could almost swear) the seller had you in mind when they customized it.

• Your insurance company won't cover your injuries because of the aftermarket seat belts!

That Scion Xb looks like the perfect price and the thing to keep your tuner heart humming!

• But they neglected to mention the wreck. And the insurance fraud.
  

And that darling CRX has a modified system to die for!

• And your car may not be street legal.

Just buy smart and enjoy your ride.

Michelle Naranjo

PS- Thank you to @CitizensforJeff for the title!

Stumble It!

Don't Put Sugar in Your Gas Tank, Sugar

Question: If you put sugar in the petrol tank does if give you a boost?
Would you put gasoline in your coffee? Same difference. Sugar is for people, gasoline is for cars. So no, don't put sugar in your gas tank (or gasoline in your coffee).

Ok, I'll explain this a bit. Putting sugar in your gas tank will, not might, will cause problems. The least damage it will do is plug the fuel filter and cause the engine not to work. The most it will do is destroy the engine. How much damage happens depends on the age of the car and the winds of fate. Todays cars are designed to run on very refined, low particulate gasoline and as such have filters in them that strain tiny amounts (Usually 2 microns). Older cars have a mesh screen, or no filter at all in them because they were designed to run on higher particulate gasoline (remember leaded gasoline?). So a new car with sugar in the fuel would get a clogged fuel filter. Older cars that would let the sugar continue into the engine are a different story.

Back story #1- In any gasoline engine a mist or spray of gasoline is atomized and combined with air to produce an extremely volatile and explosive mix which is what the engine uses to produce power. In a standard 4-stroke engine the fuel is compressed by the pistons and ignited by spark plugs producing a controlled explosion which produces power. If the air/fuel mix ignites too early the result is knocking, pinging and in some cases detonation. If it ignites too late the result is lots of smoke, excessive engine deposits and in some cases, hydro-locking the engine. So it is a delicate balance that the engine has to use to get the most power out of each explosion of each cylinder. Carburetors and distributors controlled this balance on older cars, engine control modules control it on new cars and these controls can adjust the engine a little bit to make up for irregularities in gasoline quality and octane rating, ambient temperature, etc.

Adding sugar to the fuel mix causes gasoline, a light evaporative fuel, to become sticky, thick and, worst of all, raises the ignition point massively. So you have an engine that produces anywhere between 118psi (8:1 compression ratio, 350cid) and 185psi (12:1 compression ratio, 350 cid) trying to compress a fluid (instead of a gas) and ignite it.

Back story #2- Hydraulics uses a liquid to move a load through pressure generated by a pump and a prime mover. The only reason why hydraulics works (and is capable of some amazing force. Like a hydraulic, hand operated jack being able to lift 4 tons. Or the 100 ton press I have in my shop that I use to squish pennies) is because force required to move the load is less than the force required to compress the hydraulic fluid, destabilize the frame of the piston or stop the pump. Basically, it is generally agreed than you cannot compress a liquid. (You can but only under great force and only a tiny bit)

So the sugar/gas mix that is in your engine has transformed a pneumatic (compressed air) system into a hydraulic (compressed liquids) system. Engine blocks are exceptional at many things but containing the 1/2 ton or so of pressure created when trying to compress a liquid isn't one of them. One of four things will happen: The side of the engine will blow out, the crank will snap, the cylinder head will blow off, or the valves will bend and seize. Basically turning the engine into a really heavy paper weight.

So don't put sugar in your gas.


The Motachanic

Stumble It!

Transponder Keys: My Car Key Costs How Much?

If you have bought a car recently you may have asked that very question when you try to get a copy made. Most cars now have some sort of a key transponder system. Early models had a visible resistor chip in the blade of the key. Then manufacturers went to a chip hidden in the head of the key that carries a code. When you turn the key the car goes to a computer module and checks to see if the code is in the memory. Some new cars now have a key that you can keep in your pocket. The car requests a code, then the key sends a signal out that unlocks the doors and tells the car it can start.

Now I will give you some tips that could save some time and money.

• If you're looking at buying a car ask if it has a transponder. This way you won't be shocked if you try to get a spare.
• If you buy a car ask how much it would be to get extra keys. I know when I bought a new van it was cheaper to order it with two extra keys than get extras made later.
• Try to always have three working keys for your car. This way if you lose one you still have two working keys and can add an extra key without hooking a computer to the car. Most businesses charge extra for hooking up the computer. This is not true for all cars.
• Most cars have a non-transponder key that can be cut. These keys will open the doors but will not start the car. They normally cost just a couple dollars. If you are someone who hides a key outside your car this is the key to hide. If someone finds this key they can't drive away with your car.
• If your car has a remote built into the key ask if there is a non-remote transponder key. A key with the remote can cost four times more than a non-remote key. This key will still open the doors and start the car.
• Compare prices! Don't think you have to go to a dealer for a key. Many locksmiths can cut and program transponder keys. Sometimes the dealer is cheaper, sometimes not. Do some quick checking.
• If you lose a key, ask if the memory can be cleared and the existing keys reprogrammed. This way the key that was lost will not work if found. If you find the key you can have it programmed back in.

Hopefully this will be helpful to you.

Jesse E. Piehl

Stumble It!

Automobile Tech 101 – What is a Turbo? Supercharged?

Hybrid-electric cars have obviously received a lot of attention as a way to reduce fuel consumption. Higher fuel prices have also increased interest in an older technology like Diesels and turbos (a.k.a. turbochargers). Ford, in particular, is branding a new line of turbocharged engines tuned for fuel-efficiency as “EcoBoost.”

Some readers may remember turbocharged vehicles from the last fuel crisis as they were quite common in the late 1970s and 1980s. Since then, however, few manufacturers have been pushing turbocharged engines. Two obvious exceptions include Saab which has been a big proponent of the technology for economy and Porsche, which has offered crazy-fast turbo 911s on and off over the years. It’s also hard to leave out Subaru and Mitsubishi who make performance versions of the Impreza and Lancer with turbochargers… like the Porsche, these aren’t primarily intended to save fuel. Diesel fans also know that turbos and Diesel engines go together like red and Ferrari.

I imagine that there are a lot of car buyers who really don’t know what a turbocharger is, how it works, and how it helps to improve fuel efficiency. I’ll try to answer these questions. Additionally, I want to clarify the difference between a turbocharger and another common device the supercharger.

Basic Mechanics
To explain how turbos work we need to start with some basics of the internal combustion engine. Very basically (and overly simplified for this purpose), car engines function as air pumps… a certain volume of air enters the cylinders and is mixed with fuel. This fuel then ignites, expands, and pushes the piston, thus rotating the crankshaft allowing for propulsion of the vehicle. Again, very generally, the bigger the volume of the engine the more power it creates.

Superchargers and turbochargers both aim to increase the ratio between the volume of the engine (aka “displacement”) and the power it can create. They do this by compressing the air that enters the combustion chamber, thus pushing more air into the same space which can be mixed with more fuel making more power with each ignition cycle. So an engine of a certain size can produce more power by forcing more air and fuel into each cylinder than the same engine without a turbo.

Another way to understand this is to think about airplanes. Early in the 20th century, piston-powered airplanes were limited in the altitude at which they could fly because the thin air at altitude made for less power the higher one flew. Prior to WWII, aircraft engines started to employ turbochargers to compress the air entering the engines, thus making up for some of the power losses due to the altitude. Similarly, turbocharged cars tend to suffer less than normally aspirated vehicles at higher altitudes.

Turbo vs. Super
The manner in which this compression is created is the difference between a turbocharger and a supercharger. Superchargers are driven mechanically by the engine… commonly by a belt driven off of the crankshaft. This then turns the supercharger’s compressor which speeds the air entering the cylinders.

A turbocharger, on the other hand, makes use of otherwise wasted exhaust pressure to turn a compressor. The exhaust gases are routed through a turbine which in-turn is connected to the blade that speeds up the fresh air entering the engine. Because of its use of waste energy a turbo is ultimately more efficient than a supercharger. Here’s a good diagram of the internals of a turbo.

Efficiency
But wait, you ask, if you are simply pushing more air and more fuel into an engine, how does this save gas? Well, the answer is that the turbocharger isn’t running all the time. At wide open throttle (WOT) or when you need extra acceleration like entering a freeway, the turbo can run. At other times, say cruising at low speed or on a long stretch of freeway, you don’t need the turbo. The turbo basically allows you to use a smaller engine than you would normally need while allowing for performance equal to that of a larger engine. And smaller engines, all else equal, are more efficient when you are cruising. This is similar in thought to cylinder deactivation schemes employed by some manufacturers which run an 8-cylinder engine on only 4-cylinders when conditions allow.

Of course, there are other efficiency benefits to a small turbo charged engine over a cylinder deactivation system. One is that smaller engines can also weigh less than a bigger engine. A V8 running on 4 cylinders uses less fuel but you still have to carry around the other 4 cylinders all of the time. Engines with fewer cylinders also have fewer moving parts and thus lose less energy to friction.

Downsides to turbocharged engines
If turbos are so terrific, then why aren’t they used more often? There are downsides. Turbochargers themselves are expensive. They get extremely hot and turn at high speeds so they need to be made to very tight tolerances to survive.

Additionally, all of that extra air pressure puts more stress on the rest of the engine parts. Early turbocharged engines kept self-destruction to a minimum by reducing the compression of the engine from its normally aspirated form. However, this led to reduced power when not under boost (while the turbo was compressing the intake air).

The term “Turbo Lag” that you might see in enthusiast magazines refers to the delay between pushing on the throttle pedal and the engine providing full acceleration. Traditionally, turbocharged engines suffered from this lag which made driving around town or on a race track somewhat tricky. The reduced off-boost compression in turbocharged engines made this weak off-idle acceleration even more pronounced that in non-turbocharged engines of the same size. Further exacerbating turbo lag is that the turbocharger needs a flow of exhaust gas to turn quickly. Acceleration from idle or slow speeds caused a delay while the turbine in the turbocharger could receive this flow and start to rotate. This is one reason that superchargers are popular in some applications (like drag racing, for example). Because they create boost through a mechanical link with the engine they don’t need to “spool up” with exhaust gasses, they can help create more power nearly instantaneously.

These days, manufacturers claim to have largely solved many of these downsides. Some newer cars with turbos use two smaller turbochargers in place of one large unit. The theory is that smaller lighter turbines can accelerate more quickly than a large one. They can also be used in sequence, thus allowing for tuning at different levels of rpm. Ford’s aforementioned EcoBoost V6 uses twin superchargers, as an example.

Modern engine control electronics also allow for longer life without the need to reduce engine compression as much as in the old days. Direct injection (spraying the fuel directly into the combustion chambers rather than further upstream into an intake manifold) makes for increased efficiency and also allows for a cooler fuel spray into the engine, keeping that heat down.

Long-term reliability will be seen, but the basic idea of a modern turbocharged engine seems like a great way to increase fuel economy without reducing performance or increasing weight and complexity as with a hybrid-electric car. Surely this is another example of an old technology coming back to help with a modern problem.

Steve Haas

Stumble It!

How to Buy Used and Avoid the Showroom

Tips to buying used
With the price of a gallon of gas such as it is, buying a used, economical car may now be a priority for you rather than a big screen plasma. But unless your a masochist, shopping the used car lots probably brings on a terror like no other. But what if you had a few tips to help you defeat the fear and buy like a pro? You’d probably say, “Sounds good. So, where do we start?”

Putting yourself in the driver’s seat
The primary fear to car shopping is dealing with the salesman. I’m willing to bet that you cringe at the sight of a grinning lot man, one hand extended for an overzealous hand shake, the other grasping his business card.

Your goal is to take him off his game by eliminating his advantage and making it your own. That puts you in the driver’s seat.

Advantage: You
If there’s one message that you should take from this is the importance of doing all you can off the car lot. With sites such as eBay Motors, AutoTrader and Cars.com, it’s easy to research and find used cars for sale on lots in your area. But even beyond finding the car of your dreams, negotiating a price and wrangling financing, if necessary, can be done without stepping on that grinning geeks lot.

What moves you?
Decide what type of car you want first, be it a sedan, coupe or SUV. Once you’ve done that, research online to see what’s available in your area and what the list price is at various dealers. Then compare the list price to it’s actual value with the industry standard, the Kelley Blue Book. With these numbers in hand, you’re now prepared for negotiations.

Multiple choices
Choices are good. You’ve already made the choice on what kind of car you want. Now you need to have multiple choices among dealers. Find three or four dealers that have the car you want. Contact each by email, asking if the car is still available. If so, schedule a time to look at and test drive the car.

Avoid the inside of the dealer at all costs, even if they tempt you with barbecue or beer. All you’re doing is checking the condition of the car. If you need help remembering details about the car later, take notes. Once you’re satisfied with the details, tell the dealer you’ll contact them later and walk out. Do not give them a phone number or the keys to the car you drove to the dealer. Do not enter into any negotiations at this time. Also make the salesperson aware that you do not have a trade-in. All they need to know is that you will be paying for the car in full, either with cash or a check you will receive from outside financing. The desired result is to have multiple dealers competing for your business. Hopefully, at least three of the cars you drove are worthy of your money.

Make an offer
Contact all of the dealers again via email, making an offer you determine in your mind to be fair based on your earlier research. If any of the dealers refuse to work with you in this way, strike them from your list. Wait for responses from each lot, matching their counter offer to each vehicle and its condition. If your preferred vehicle is not the lowest price, email the dealer with that car and ask if they will lower the price to at least match their competitor. Make sure any negotiated prices include all taxes, registration and dealer costs. There’s no reason to put up with surprises when all costs and fees can be finalized beforehand.

Accept and sign
Once you’ve chosen the vehicle and dealer, let them know you are prepared to come in and buy the car. But tell them you want all paperwork prepared in full and ready to sign. And be prepared yourself. Have all information the dealer is requesting ready and organized. The last thing you need is to find out you’re missing some necessary details when you were expecting to take delivery.

Success…the keys are yours
Well done. You’ve just beat the dealer at their own game. And graduated with a degree in negotiating. You can be satisfied in knowing you found the car you wanted, got it at the price you were willing to pay and avoided the grasp of a slimy salesman. Now enjoy your new ride.

Andy Mrozinski
Mota Blog Contributor
Ridestory.com

Stumble It!

Out with the old, in with the…reconditioned??????

Question: “What does it mean when an engine is reconditioned? Tell me about warranties.”


When an engine is worn out on the inside but still usable mechanically it can be removed from the car it is in and be re-manufactured, re-conditioned or rebuilt. This is especially prevalent in rare cars and engines and in older American made engines. The reason for this is that in rare cars and engines where parts are hard to find it may not be possible to find a new engine to replace one that is worn out because they haven’t been made for a while. American engines (i.e. Motown V-8s from the 50s-80s) were typically overbuilt in the engine block but suffered when it came to the durability of things like cylinder sleeves and piston rings so instead of buying a new engine you could rebuild the one you had for way less money.

The terms re-built, re-conditioned and re-manufactured are all marketing terms usually used to mean the same or similar thing. What this means is that there is no set standard for these engines, any two manufacturers will have differing standards regarding what is required to be replaced and what is not. Typically during a re-build, re-man or re-con the engine is returned or repaired to near factory new conditions. This means usually, but not always; new piston rings, valves, bearings and gaskets. Depending on the shop, they may replace the pistons, connecting rods and rocker arms. This all depends on the experience and thoroughness of the shop

Here are some of the good and bad things about re-engines…They are a lot less expensive than a completely new engine and usually they will run just fine. Unfortunately, without a set standard of what each of the terms requires, it is a roll of the dice what you are going to get. Typically you will get what you pay for. A high end shop that charges more and has a good reputation will typically change out a part if it is anything but pristine. A lower end shop will typically bypass changing parts if they feel that it is serviceable. A really bad shop will not change the parts and tell you they did, knowing full well you probably aren’t going to be checking to see if you have new valve rockers or connecting rods.

A re-engine will usually come with a warranty. Typically 12months or 12000 miles but it varies between 30 days and 1000 miles and 3 years and 30000 miles. Typically dealerships offer the longest warranties.

What does a warranty cover? The warranty covers only what the shop repaired or replaced, and only defects in materials and workmanship. So if you crash into a tree, don’t expect them to warranty your engine. However, if you just got a re-man engine back from the shop and it throws a rod it will typically be covered. Always get your warranty in writing and make sure that you keep a copy.

Stumble It!

I've got gas, and you can too! Getting Better Gas Mileage by a Mechanic

Question: I can’t afford a new car, and the price of gas is killing me. How can I get the most mileage out of the car I already own?

This question was asked of me recently as the price of gasoline is above four dollars and the price of diesel requires you to take a second mortgage out on your home before tanking up. Obviously, everyone doesn’t have the financial means to purchase a new vehicle, even though OPEC seems to think we do. Thus I will list the things you can do and have done to maximize your mpg.

First off, I would like to preface this with a no-nonsense disclaimer. You will not get 50mpg out of a carbureted big block V-8 without spending more on the conversion than you would on fuel anyway. Is it possible? Yes. Is it expensive? Very. Is it so expensive that it is probably out of reach for someone who can’t afford a new car? Yes. So…the following is a list of things you can do to improve your gas mileage without breaking the bank.

Keep your tires fully inflated to the tire sidewall pressure. (where it says XXpsi (cold) Tires that are low on air require more energy to turn because there is more rolling resistance between them and the ground. The more energy your engine has to use, the more fuel it will burn.

Lighten your vehicle. It is easier than you think. Go through your trunk and remove everything that you haven’t used within the last six months except the spare tire and jack. The less weight there is in your vehicle, the less power it takes to move it and the less fuel you will burn. If you have AAA coverage, you can take out the spare and the jack too but make sure to replace them before a long trip.

Use the air conditioning sparingly. The air conditioning system on a vehicle take a lot of energy away from the engine and burns a lot of fuel, so use it sparingly. If you are in city traffic, roll down your window instead. If you are on the highway turn the A/C on for a few minutes and then turn it off. Rolling down your window on late model cars while on the highway actually burns more fuel than running the air conditioning because of wind resistance.

Turn off your car. If you are waiting in a drive-thru or waiting for someone, turn off your car. There is an old saying that starting your car burns more fuel than just leaving it run. This is false. It also doesn’t cause that much more wear and tear on the engine so the greatest benefit is to turn the car off

Ease up on the throttle. Acceleration burns more gas than driving at a constant speed, so avoid fast starts and don't exceed the speed limit on the highway.

Drive conservatively. Leave a bit more distance between you and the person ahead of you in stop and go traffic. That way when the person in front of you stops you can take your foot off of the accelerator and coast for a bit. If you have left enough room then by the time you get to where you would have stopped anyway, the person in front of you has probably already sped up again. This has an added effect that it causes less wear to your braking system and actually helps clear up traffic because the person behind you will see that your brake lights not come on and will maintain a more consistent speed. Plus it is a safer way to drive because it give you more reaction distance should the person in front of you slam on their brakes.

Change your oil and air filter regularly but not your spark plugs. Huh? Don’t change my spark plugs? Your engine oil reduces friction in your engine, less friction means less energy used to keep the engine running so less fuel used. Your air filter, when it is dirty, can cause the engine to run a little rich causing you to lose power and burn more fuel. As for the spark plugs…New spark plugs have less resistance to make a spark than old ones as old ones have built up carbon on them from burnt fuel. That extra resistance causes a hotter spark to overcome the resistance of the carbon deposits on the electrodes, which causes the fuel/air mix to burn hotter and causes the ignition timing to advance very slightly. Which will produce a bit more power and a bit less fuel consumption. So only change your spark plugs if one or more is not working.

Get a tune up. Your local mechanic (or you) can perform a tune up on your car that will make the engine run more efficiently and useless fuel. The typical tune up consists of: New PCV valve, new EGR valve, oil and filter change, re-time the engine and adjust the valves.

Lube your drive train. Your local mechanic (or you) can perform a full drive train lube and service which consists of removing and replacing the differential and transmission oil and lubricating the suspension, driveshaft and steering linkages. This will reduce friction in the drive train, requiring less energy to make things move. It will also cause your bearings, bushings and seals to last longer.

Service your bearings. Your local mechanic can service your axle bearings which will remove a lot of friction from your drive train. It is not uncommon to get 30-70 more miles per tank of fuel with new or serviced bearings. Since this usually requires removing the wheels, hubs, jackshafts and brake assemblies I recommend having a professional mechanic do this service unless you know what you are doing. If your bearings are sealed cartridge bearings, have them replaced. If they are loose “cup and cone” or “cup and race” bearings, have them inspected, cleaned, lubed and re-installed or replaced if necessary. Ensure the mechanic uses a torque wrench to achieve proper bearing pre-load (a lot of them just tighten until the wheel doesn’t turn and then loosen ¼ turn, this is incorrect)


Finally, if you just need to go up to the store on the corner, or run a quick and close errand, consider walking, biking, roller-skating, jogging, walking on your hands, riding a scooter or skateboarding instead of using your car. Even the most efficient hybrid car in the world gets worse fuel mileage than you do.


Grimy Handshakes,
The Motachanic

Stumble It!

Motachanic: Car Battery Corrosion and Cleaning It

What should I do about corrosion on a car battery?



Don't eat it.

Seriously, though. Despite the fact that it looks vaguely like powdered sugar, the white fluffy stuff that you see attached to the terminals of your cars battery should not be used to sweeten your coffee, or used as a topping for your favorite pastry. First off it tastes terrible, it isn't sweet like anti-freeze is. Second it is extremely toxic and can cause chemical burns because it is basically concentrated sulfuric acid with lead residues in it.

The technical stuff: The reason why you have powdered acid on your posts is because as the alternator of your car charges the battery the water/acid catalyst inside of the battery can become very hot. The water will evaporate and the acid will become a vapor which, due to the polarity of the battery terminals, will stick to the battery posts and other parts of your engine compartment. Over time the corrosion and powdery build up caused by this will disrupt the connection between the battery and the terminals preventing you from starting your car.

There is a really easy way of taking care of it though. You will need the following:

-1 pair latex or nitrile gloves..
-1 wrench to remove battery terminals..
-2 battery post corrosion preventative felts, preferably saturated with NCP-2 preventative compound (Noco part# D313). .
-1 can battery acid detector/ corrosion removal spray (Noco part# E404). or 1 box baking soda and a cup.
-1 wire brush
-1 pair safety glasses or goggles
-A water supply.

1. First, ensure the engine on your car is off and cool.
2. Open and secure the hood.
3. Locate the battery.
4. Put on gloves
5. Remove anything that prevents access to the battery posts. (battery covers, heat shields etc)
6. Using the appropriate wrench, remove the negative battery terminal.
7. Using the appropriate wrench, remove the positive battery terminal
8. Put on safety glasses
9. Using Acid detector/ corrosion removal spray or a thin paste of baking soda and water, apply liberally to all white powdery residue areas.
10. Using wire brush, brush battery posts where the terminals connect.
11. Using a modest stream of water, rinse off battery.
12. Put one battery felt on each post
13. Attach positive battery terminal to positive post. Tighten until terminal cannot be wiggled
14. Attach negative battery terminal to negative post. Tighten until terminal cannot be wiggled
15. Rinse off battery cover, heat shield, etc
16. Re-install battery cover, heat shield etc
17. Clean up your mess
18. Remove gloves and safety glasses.
19. Close hood.
20. Crack open a cold one, you're done!

Oh, and by the way, the spray and/or baking soda neutralizes the acid so don't feel bad about washing the battery off.

Rags and wrenches,
The Motachanic

p.s. Anti-freeze does taste sweet, but it is deadly. Do not drink or taste it. So just take my word for it.

Stumble It!