Motachanic: Car Battery Corrosion and Cleaning It

What should I do about corrosion on a car battery?



Don't eat it.

Seriously, though. Despite the fact that it looks vaguely like powdered sugar, the white fluffy stuff that you see attached to the terminals of your cars battery should not be used to sweeten your coffee, or used as a topping for your favorite pastry. First off it tastes terrible, it isn't sweet like anti-freeze is. Second it is extremely toxic and can cause chemical burns because it is basically concentrated sulfuric acid with lead residues in it.

The technical stuff: The reason why you have powdered acid on your posts is because as the alternator of your car charges the battery the water/acid catalyst inside of the battery can become very hot. The water will evaporate and the acid will become a vapor which, due to the polarity of the battery terminals, will stick to the battery posts and other parts of your engine compartment. Over time the corrosion and powdery build up caused by this will disrupt the connection between the battery and the terminals preventing you from starting your car.

There is a really easy way of taking care of it though. You will need the following:

-1 pair latex or nitrile gloves..
-1 wrench to remove battery terminals..
-2 battery post corrosion preventative felts, preferably saturated with NCP-2 preventative compound (Noco part# D313). .
-1 can battery acid detector/ corrosion removal spray (Noco part# E404). or 1 box baking soda and a cup.
-1 wire brush
-1 pair safety glasses or goggles
-A water supply.

1. First, ensure the engine on your car is off and cool.
2. Open and secure the hood.
3. Locate the battery.
4. Put on gloves
5. Remove anything that prevents access to the battery posts. (battery covers, heat shields etc)
6. Using the appropriate wrench, remove the negative battery terminal.
7. Using the appropriate wrench, remove the positive battery terminal
8. Put on safety glasses
9. Using Acid detector/ corrosion removal spray or a thin paste of baking soda and water, apply liberally to all white powdery residue areas.
10. Using wire brush, brush battery posts where the terminals connect.
11. Using a modest stream of water, rinse off battery.
12. Put one battery felt on each post
13. Attach positive battery terminal to positive post. Tighten until terminal cannot be wiggled
14. Attach negative battery terminal to negative post. Tighten until terminal cannot be wiggled
15. Rinse off battery cover, heat shield, etc
16. Re-install battery cover, heat shield etc
17. Clean up your mess
18. Remove gloves and safety glasses.
19. Close hood.
20. Crack open a cold one, you're done!

Oh, and by the way, the spray and/or baking soda neutralizes the acid so don't feel bad about washing the battery off.

Rags and wrenches,
The Motachanic

p.s. Anti-freeze does taste sweet, but it is deadly. Do not drink or taste it. So just take my word for it.

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Motachanic: Shaking Steering Wheel Issues

Question: When I get my car over 70 mph, the steering wheel starts to shake. What does this mean?

There are several problems that can account for this problem. Without actually riding in the car myself, I can't know for sure exactly what problem you are having, so I will try to cover as many as I can given the information that you have provided to me.

• Loose lug nuts: Check your lug nut torque. Typically it is around 80 ft-lbs for most passenger vehicles. If you don't have a torque wrench available, just make sure they are all tight.
• Low or flat front tire: Check the tire pressure in your tires. Inflate the tires to the pressure indicated on the sidewall of the tire where it says "Max psi (cold)"
• Dented wheel: Do you view curbs as suggestions? Do speed bumps make you speed? You may have a dented wheel. Check both sides of all the wheels for any flat areas along the area of rim where the tire meets the rim (bead). If your wheel is dented see your local wheel specialist to see if it can be repaired.
• Road flotsam on halfshaft (front wheel drove only): look in between the engine and the wheels. Notice the straight steel bar that connects the two? Those are your axle halfshafts. Ensure there are no rags, clothing etc caught on the axles. The rubber boots at either end of the axle are supposed to be there.
• Irregular wear on tire: If the tire is worn irregularly, or if there is a deformity of the tire such as a broken radial cord. Take a look at the front two tires on your car, check the side opposite the lug nuts too. If there are any deformities, replace both fr4ont tires and have your struts replaced and get an alignment performed.
• Improperly balanced tires: Have a reputable shop check and re balance your tires for you. Wheel weights do fall off sometimes so don't assume that the last mechanic who mounted your tires screwed up.
• Severely warped brake rotor one one side: If the problem gets worse when you apply the brakes, have your brake rotors turned and your pads replaced
• CV Joint damaged (front wheel drive only): Look in the front fender wells. If there is an excessive build up of black sticky goo everywhere then you probably tore a CV Boot a while ago and didn't know it. Take your car to your local mechanic and have him replace the CV Joint and boot.

If none of the above have resolved the problem then take the car to your local mechanic.

Grimy Handshake,
The Motachanic

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Flashing Oil Engine Light- The Motachanic Speaks

Your car is equipped with an oil level sensor that lets you know when your oil level is very low. The sensor is either a hydrostatic or float type sensor depending on make/model/year of your vehicle. The hydrostatic sensor detects oil pressure and is usually mounted in the engine block oil gallery or plumbing after the oil pump. A float type sensor detects the level of oil in the crank case itself.

Hydrostatic: When there isn't sufficient oil in the engine to produce oil pressure then the light goes on (most common)
Float: When the oil level in the crank case drops below a certain level, the light goes on. (older cars)

The oil in your crankcase is sucked up through the oil pickup tube by the vacuum created by the oil pump. Once past the oil pump it is distributed throughout the engine to lubricate every moving part before returning to the crankcase.

Just like trying to get that last bit of soda out from the bottom of a glass with a straw, once the oil level drops below a certain level the oil pump cannot create enough vacuum to suck the rest of the oil up.

Basically your car is low on oil. The oil level is just barely higher than the oil pickup tube in the crankcase. When the car is in being driven in a straight line or is idling and stopped there is enough oil to still have circulation. Cornering forces are typically stronger than acceleration forces for non-competition driving so when you turn a corner the oil sloshes over to one side of the crankcase and for a brief moment the oil pickup tube has no oil to suck, causing the oil light to illuminate.

Every time the engine is starved for oil the loss of lubrication causes damage to the engine so this should be fixed as soon as you can.

With your engine off check the oil level on the dip-stick. Consult your owners manual for what viscosity oil you should add. Add that oil to the engine through the oil fill port on the top of the engine in 1/2 quart quantities until the level on the dipstick reads full.


Your Wrenchmeister
The Motachanic

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What Color Car is The Best and How To Take Car of It?

Ah, the age old problem: You are looking for a car, but you want it to look good with the minimal amount of effort. I have seen and experienced black car ownership and it can reduce a normal person to a neurotic mess. There are actually 2 ways to go about maintaining the look of your car, and when you use them together you can be assured that your vehicle with always look it's best.

1. Color. White is hands down the cleanest color choice. There is a reason why a vast majority of the fleet vehicles in service today are white: It is low maintenance. A white car hides dirt, grime, water spots and the like better than any other color with the exception of camouflage. And MY2008 marks the first time in over a decade that white is the most popular color for new cars.
Typically the darker the hue of paint, the harder it is to keep clean. The scale rises exponentially between gray and black simply because black acts very much like a mirror. It reflects and magnifies everything including smudges, over spray, fingerprints etc.
If you are set on a gray color, try to find a lighter gray as it will be less maintenance than a dark gray. Nonmetallic cars are easier to keep clean, especially in dusty conditions as they do not sparkle. A metallic car must be kept very clean to get full benefit from the metal flakes in the paint.

2. Upkeep. Every six months have the exterior of your car detailed. You will be surprised at how much less effort you will have to put into your car's appearance when you have a pro apply a high quality wax and buff it to a shine. Even if it rains it is not uncommon to not have any water spots on a black car provided it was properly cleaned, waxed and polished prior to the rains. Detailing is expensive but worth the expense if you can afford it.

There are a few products available that will help you keep your car looking factory fresh. 3M makes a clear adhesive coating that is applied over clean paint to guard against rock chips and the like. It must be applied by a professional but it is a lot cheaper to replace than getting the car repainted. American Racing offers wheels that have Teflon baked onto the surface of them which almost eliminates brake dust (which is why the front wheels on some cars are much darker than the rear). Meguiars makes a clear plastic polish that helps take small scratches and light oxidation out of clear plastic (i.e. headlamp lenses)

Naturally, all of these products and services cost money and/or time so it is up to you to decide how clean you want your car to be, once you decide on a color, that is.

The Motachanic

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