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10/3/08

Buying a Used Car: Dealer vs. FSBO

I’ve purchased a lot of cars over the years. At last count I’ve owned close to 50 different cars and motorcycles, most of which were purchased used. Ok, I have a problem, I’ll admit it. I’m a car nut and like to experience different cars, I’m fickle. Yet it has not been entirely as crazy as it sounds. With only a few exceptions (Saabs, mostly) I’ve been able to buy these cars, drive them for a while, then sell them later for about what I bought them for.

Clearly, there are advantages to buying used rather than new. Primarily these are monetary: price (buy a car you could not afford new a few years later) and the related depreciation (most of the hit is taken during the first few years, so your ownership costs don’t include this big hit). The downsides are the potential lack of a factory warranty, fewer finance options (there are usually more financing options for new cars like cheap/free financing and leasing) and the fear of buying someone else’s problem vehicle.

The financing issue is becoming a bigger issue these days. The tight credit markets mean that peer to peer sales are often unfinanceable… even with good credit it is increasingly difficult if not impossible to secure a loan to buy a used car from a private party seller (aka For Sale by Owner or FSBO).

That issue aside, and hopefully it’s just a short-term problem, I should say that I really prefer to buy my used cars directly from the previous owner. I really don’t understand why anyone would buy a used car from a dealer unless it was a certified pre-owned car with a serious extended warranty. But dealers usually ask for a hefty premium for these… enough that if it concerns you there are plenty of aftermarket extended service agreements available for a price.

Of course, my position is highly biased by my passion for cars. I am willing to take time to find the right vehicle and I find the hunt entertaining in itself. So, why buy from a FSBO rather than a dealer?
It comes down to information. I like to know who owned the car before me. I like to know how he or she took care of it, maintained it, washed it, and drove it.

I bought my first used car during high school, I think it was about 1986. I visited some dealers and looked at ads in the local paper (remember those?). I ended up looking at a few cars but one really got my attention. It was not that it was the hottest car; it was a 1981 Celica coupe, about 80,000 miles on the clock and in very clean condition. But what really struck me was the owner. He was a surgeon who drove the car through his residency and now that he was making some coin decided to buy himself a brand new Saab Turbo. His garage looked like an operating room in its cleanliness. Next to the Celica was a beautifully restored 1955 T-Bird with the hard top in a hoist on the ceiling. He provided a binder showing fastidious maintenance like oil changes every 2,500 miles since new. The car was spotless inside and out. I just had a good feeling about it. I ended up buying it and driving it until 140,000 miles without a failure. My sister, on the other hand, liked my car and went out and bought another Celica of the same vintage and had nothing but problems with it. The previous owner had no maintenance records, smoked like a chimney, and generally wasn’t a car person. You can imagine that her experience was very different than mine because she ignored the warning signs.

Since then, I’ve really tried to pay attention to a car’s ownership history and this strategy has served me well. The primary reason I don’t like buying from a dealer is that they often take that aforementioned book of maintenance records and throw it in the trash. Case in point is my most recent purchase.

I was looking for a relatively rare model, a 1994-5 Mercedes E320 Cabriolet. There were some examples popping up for sale on Craigslist and eBay every so often. One happened to be for sale at a local Mercedes dealer who reportedly took it in on trade. I checked the car out and it looked very nice, with moderate mileage, flawless interior, and a very nice exterior. It drove like a new car despite having about 70k miles on the clock as one would expect of a Benz from that era. However, they had NO maintenance records available despite the fact that the car had been owned by one person since new. I can just imagine the records that the previous owner must have handed over to the dealer when he traded it in.

CarFax verified the ownership history story I was given. Normally, when buying a car with potentially devastating repair costs I like to get an independent professional inspection by a marque expert. Of course, as a franchised dealer they wouldn’t allow me to do so and instead pointed to their “120 point used car inspection.” I knew that the car had been on their lot for some time and decided to go through with the purchase as the price was the same as I would have paid a private party for a car in the same condition.

To be fair, I didn’t get ripped off or anything. The car has been just fine for the 5 months I have had it. This past weekend I did have a radiator hose burst, an unforeseeable failure and only a $12 part with no damage done. However, if had purchased the car from a private party and had known that the hoses hadn’t been replaced in 15 years I would have gone through and replaced them upon purchasing the car as I have on my other purchases. I always budget $500-$1000 for a solid going-through to take care of small repairs and a for a comprehensive maintenance session like hoses, belts, brake fluid, coolant, oil change, etc. However, since I bought the car from a franchised dealer and had received a number of promises about their reconditioning processes I skipped this usual step. My fault, no doubt.

In most cases, you also have to pay a premium to a dealer… after all they bought the car from an auction or from the previous owner and are marking it up. I just like to skip this step as I don’t find that it adds any value to me. If I buy a used car with no warranty and something breaks two days later the dealer is simply not going to remember my name any more than if I had bought it from the previous owner.

In summary, the benefits to buying from a private party include increased information about the vehicle’s past, maintenance records, an increased ability to get an independent inspection, and a lower price. Buying from a dealer potentially saves some time hunting for the car and gets you increased access to financing. Granted, this alone may be a deal-breaker but usually does not justify the increased expense. Ok, dealers, let me have it, I am sure you can identify some other benefits I have overlooked but my advice to friends and family is to search FSBO listings, get a professional pre-purchase inspection, and budget for a thorough preemptive maintenance session.

Steve Haas

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8/7/08

How to Buy Used and Avoid the Showroom

http://www.mota.net/Blog/uploaded_images/used_car_salesman-772596.jpg

Tips to buying used
With the price of a gallon of gas such as it is, buying a used, economical car may now be a priority for you rather than a big screen plasma. But unless your a masochist, shopping the used car lots probably brings on a terror like no other. But what if you had a few tips to help you defeat the fear and buy like a pro? You’d probably say, “Sounds good. So, where do we start?”

Putting yourself in the driver’s seat
The primary fear to car shopping is dealing with the salesman. I’m willing to bet that you cringe at the sight of a grinning lot man, one hand extended for an overzealous hand shake, the other grasping his business card.

Your goal is to take him off his game by eliminating his advantage and making it your own. That puts you in the driver’s seat.

Advantage: You
If there’s one message that you should take from this is the importance of doing all you can off the car lot. With sites such as eBay Motors, AutoTrader and Cars.com, it’s easy to research and find used cars for sale on lots in your area. But even beyond finding the car of your dreams, negotiating a price and wrangling financing, if necessary, can be done without stepping on that grinning geeks lot.

What moves you?
Decide what type of car you want first, be it a sedan, coupe or SUV. Once you’ve done that, research online to see what’s available in your area and what the list price is at various dealers. Then compare the list price to it’s actual value with the industry standard, the Kelley Blue Book. With these numbers in hand, you’re now prepared for negotiations.

Multiple choices
Choices are good. You’ve already made the choice on what kind of car you want. Now you need to have multiple choices among dealers. Find three or four dealers that have the car you want. Contact each by email, asking if the car is still available. If so, schedule a time to look at and test drive the car.

Avoid the inside of the dealer at all costs, even if they tempt you with barbecue or beer. All you’re doing is checking the condition of the car. If you need help remembering details about the car later, take notes. Once you’re satisfied with the details, tell the dealer you’ll contact them later and walk out. Do not give them a phone number or the keys to the car you drove to the dealer. Do not enter into any negotiations at this time. Also make the salesperson aware that you do not have a trade-in. All they need to know is that you will be paying for the car in full, either with cash or a check you will receive from outside financing. The desired result is to have multiple dealers competing for your business. Hopefully, at least three of the cars you drove are worthy of your money.

Make an offer
Contact all of the dealers again via email, making an offer you determine in your mind to be fair based on your earlier research. If any of the dealers refuse to work with you in this way, strike them from your list. Wait for responses from each lot, matching their counter offer to each vehicle and its condition. If your preferred vehicle is not the lowest price, email the dealer with that car and ask if they will lower the price to at least match their competitor. Make sure any negotiated prices include all taxes, registration and dealer costs. There’s no reason to put up with surprises when all costs and fees can be finalized beforehand.

Accept and sign
Once you’ve chosen the vehicle and dealer, let them know you are prepared to come in and buy the car. But tell them you want all paperwork prepared in full and ready to sign. And be prepared yourself. Have all information the dealer is requesting ready and organized. The last thing you need is to find out you’re missing some necessary details when you were expecting to take delivery.

Success…the keys are yours
Well done. You’ve just beat the dealer at their own game. And graduated with a degree in negotiating. You can be satisfied in knowing you found the car you wanted, got it at the price you were willing to pay and avoided the grasp of a slimy salesman. Now enjoy your new ride.

Andy Mrozinski
Mota Blog Contributor
Ridestory.com

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1/2/08

Buying a New Car or Slightly Used?

There is something in the air- I mean, I am not an economist but there is trend that I am seeing repeatedly in the search terms people are using to hit my blog and the many questions that I see coming across the Buying & Selling forum within Yahoo Answers: people want out of expensive new car loans and into less expensive cars.

Now I have addressed that issue several times now but what if I could get people before they get into that dangerous loan zone where they end up upside down and in over their head?

If I could stand in the street with a big sign (on a soap box, of course), I would tell everyone to buy slightly used and here is why:

1. A car depreciates most the first year of its life- as much as 30% and after the 2nd year, a typical car is worth 60 % of its original cost.

2. Cars are now more reliable than ever with most models having a life expectancy that when properly maintained, will last a whopping 15 years or 225,000 miles!

3. Extended warranties on new cars from dealers will not usually cover the things that really need to be fixed so buying without a warranty will save you a load of cash.

4. More lenders- banks, savings and loans and insurance companies are offering financing for buyers who want to buy used from private parties because they know that they will be saving money.

Of course there are arguments why buying brand new with cash and hanging onto a new car forever is a good move but for those of us who need financing, saving interest payments on 2 years of massive depreciation is the best idea ever.

Just remember- when buying online and from private parties, invest in an Experian AutoCheck and get a qualified mechanic to give it the once over.

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12/11/07

Sales Tax: Trading In, Selling and Buying a Car

Taxes are a very funny thing sometimes. We all complain about having to pay them but as a general rule of thumb, if you pay income taxes, it probably means that you made money and that is not a bad thing. Likewise, paying taxes when you buy a new car, at least in some states, could indicate that you made more money on your old car by selling it yourself!

Here is how it works if you sell your old car:

Step 1: You sell your old car and get more than you would at the dealer’s for trade in.

Step 2: You buy a newer/better car from a dealer or a private seller.

Step 3: You register your car and pay sales tax on that purchase in every state except Alaska, Delaware, Montana, New Hampshire, and Oregon.

Here is how it works if you do a trade in:

Step 1: You trade you old car into a dealer and get less than you would if you had sold it yourself.

Step 2: You pick out your newer and/or better car at the dealership.

Step 3: You pay the registration to the dealer and in every state except California, the District of Columbia, Hawaii, Maryland and Michigan, you will get a deduction for the sales tax on the purchase but you will be taxed on the title transfer fees that the dealer charges you.

So, in every state except California, the District of Columbia, Hawaii, Maryland and Michigan if you sell your car yourself and then buy a car, you will pay sales tax but you actually got a lot more for your car that you sold! Does it balance out? Yep- it actually still means that you are putting money in your pocket to go towards that next purchase.

Making money after taxes is what it is all about!

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11/19/07

Selling My Car But It Isn't Buyers That Are Calling

Dear Miss Mota Mouth,

I listed my car online and now my phone is ringing off the hook but it isn’t buyers! It is dealers asking me to trade my car in at their lot or people who say they can sell my car for me. Who are these people and should I trust them?

Carla N., Newark, NJ



Dear Nervous in New Jersey,

Ah, salesmen! Don’t you love them? They want your business even when you may not want their company! These guys are using ads online and in publications to get leads and generate business. Most are legitimate but you may not like their terms.

If it is a dealer calling you, they are not just trying to take your car off your hands; they are trying to sell you a car. If you are trying to sell your car yourself then you probably already know that you will get a higher price from a For Sale By Owner Listing than you would in trade-in value.

Sometimes the dealer is just trying to do consignment and will be expecting you to pay them a fee, often weekly, for the privilege of letting your car sit on their lot.

Similarly there are now third party services that will sell your car for you for a flat upfront fee or will expect a consignment fee based on a percentage of the final sale price.

An aggressive sales person may not be a bad idea if you are trying to sell your car especially if they are going to list your car for you online and help with the buyers. But, if you don’t want their calls, make sure that you ask them to not bug you again.

Next time you try to sell your car yourself you may want to use a temporary phone service like www.numbr.com that will assign a temporary phone number that will forward calls to your regular phone and allow you to screen callers before you decide to answer.


Confidently,

M

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Car Stereo in Anti-Theft Mode

Dear Miss Mota Mouth,

My battery on my car died and now my radio will not work. I have been driving around without any music for days now and it is driving me batty! The screen is flashing a bunch of dashes and I know that I am supposed to have a code somewhere but can’t seem to find it anywhere. Should I just buy a new one?

Julieta I., Seattle, WA



Dear Soundless in Seattle,

It must be so difficult having to endure all of that silence! When your battery went dead, your car’s stereo was unable to get any power so it enabled it’s own anti-theft mode. Pretty clever, huh?

Well, it is only clever if you can find the security code which should be printed on the stereo manual in your glove box. It will be a 3-5 digit code and you will need to either enter it by pushing the pre-tune buttons or scrolling with the tuner knob or toggle. If you do not get it entered correctly within the first couple of tries, the stereo may lock you out for 30 minutes to an hour until you can try again. In some brands of stereos you may have to leave the car running and the stereo on for the entire period that you are locked out before your next attempt.

If you cannot find your original code you could just head to the nearest dealership (provided that it is the stereo that was installed by the car manufacturer) and ask if they can print the number out for you to do it yourself. Some dealers may want to see your registration and ID so be prepared to show them. If they insist that they need to have a technician fix it the cost will be around $40.

If it is not a factory stereo then a qualified sound shop might be able to help you with a little persuasion.

Once you have the code make sure that you stow a copy in the glove box so that if it should happen again, you will not have to listen to yourself hum!

Audibly,

M

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