Are Hybrids Really That Green? Jay Leno Thinks "Not So Much"

A few months ago I had a casual breakfast with the extremely nice, forward thinking and innovative guys from Spin-LA and we were discussing the state of the auto industry in light of the move to become more green. That conversation sparked a dialog with now many others about whether hybrid technology is in fact as exciting as some of us thought that it was a few years ago.

Unfortunately these moments where I think I am having a "dialog" are sometimes too challenging to hybrid fans and I have, erm, upset them on occasion. For example, practically every person who is referred in this article about hybrids retaining their value got cross with my questions about if their hybrid investments were actually worth the environmental impact that the manufacturing actually costs.

But I am not the only one, I swear! Jay Leno has done a at least a couple of interviews now about this very subject. Of course Jay, in his entire luckiness, is sitting on a mountain of investments other people call collector cars but the jest of his point is that many of these cars have less environmental impact thank current hybrid technologies because they are fuel efficient and their manufacturing impact has practically expired because they were made 40+ years ago.

There are all sorts of number out there that I am currently trying to sort through (statistics not being my forte) that indicate that based on the typical 3-year trade in mentality that most hybrid owner demographics practice, the production of a hybrid has more of a negative environmental impact than the typical Ford F-350 owner. These numbers are based on some of those magical numbers that constitute a carbon footprint profile and include the total number of BTUs needed to manufacture something. For example, a common hybrid on the market will take the equivalent of 1,000 gallons of gas before it has a low carbon impact. Ford's pickups stay on the road an amazing number of years and pass through many owners without costing the environment any additional manufacturing impact.

John McCain even believes that we need to "leapfrog" current hybrid trends. Can we scramble fast enough to get the prize or, in light of the auto manufacturers now finally realizing that they were lazy and need to do some great R&D now for cars that will likely not be in production until post-2011, should we just wait and hold on to the cars that we have?

Not many of us would consider driving a Model T around but we do have to question whether a new car is always a necessity. Sure, older cars break but in the current economic climate, is a car payment on top of negative environmental consequences always the best idea?

XOO,M

Michelle Naranjo

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Transmissions: What suits you?

How many of you, when shopping for a car, think about the transmission you prefer? Are you an enthusiast, someone who loves the complete freedom of controlling your car and choosing what gear you want to be in and when? Or do you hand that process off to your car, letting it choose what it feels is best?

At Ridestory, I just wrote about Audi’s newly introduced 7-speed dual-clutch transmission, the S tronic. This is a new gear box for Audi, one that will be available in many of their new cars in the not-so-distant future. But what about cars on the road now, cars that have a few miles on them, but ones you may be considering as a pre-owned purchase?

There’s nothing wrong with buying used, especially when the choices still cater to our unique driving habits. And there’s more than a few variations of car transmissions to meet your needs. Here’s a brief list of the types of gear boxes available. Which one suits you? Or do you think your perspective of driving might change with a different transmission at hand?

Traditional manual’s: Old school but still the best for die hard enthusiasts
Traditional manual’s use a gear-shift lever, usually in an H-pattern, where the driver can choose any gear they want with the use of a clutch. Many years ago, three and four-speed manuals were the accepted norm. But as time and technology evolved, so did the manual gear box. Five speeds are commonplace now, with six-speeds typically reserved for high performance cars.

Automatic’s
An automatic transmission, as it’s name suggests, shifts gears automatically, without the driver having to select the gear he or she wants manually. Automatics have been available in the United States since the ‘50s, with the rest of the world becoming more “automatic friendly” during the 1990s.

Sequential manual’s: Constantly evolving and improving
Sequential manual’s differ from traditional manuals by allowing the driver to select the gear directly before or after the current one, without the use of a clutch. Sequential’s use dog clutch engagement rather than the synchromesh in traditional manuals. Gear changes are usually made with paddles behind the steering wheel, although a stick in the center console may also be used. The dogs only interrupt engine torque for a moment during the gear change. The clutch, if there is one, will only be used to get a car moving from a complete stop. Formula One cars introduced this technology during the ‘90s and is still in use in one form or another in auto racing.

Dual-clutch: The transmission increasing in popularity
What’s interesting about dual-clutch transmissions is its use of two clutches, one each for the even- and odd-numbered gears. The dual-clutch is a semi-automatic transmission. While one clutch is in use, the other can be selecting the next gear, depending on a computers thought processes. For example, if you are accelerating, the dual-clutch’s computer selects the next gear up with the idle clutch, assuming you will continue to accelerate. Shifts can be accomplished quickly and smoothly, without interrupting engine torque. The most common manufacturer using dual-clutch transmissions is Volkswagen, with their self-branded gear box, the DSG.

One thing buyers are secure in knowing when car shopping is that they have options. Who doesn’t like choices when considering a major purchase?

One of those options is considering the purchase of a used vehicle. An obvious advantage to buying used is the car’s depreciation was the responsibility of the first owner. But you are also presented with some great choices, with a car’s transmission being one of them. You’ll be able to sample many manufacturers, with cars sporting gear box options that you probably wouldn’t have considered if you were buying new. Imagine test driving used Volkswagen’s or Audi’s with manual- and dual-clutch transmissions. You’re able to compare and contrast each gear box and decide which is right for you.

The downside to buying used, of course, is reliability. Is any one of these transmissions more reliable than another? Hard to say. Take into consideration the number of miles on the car and, if you can, how the seller drove it. Do they appear to be die-hard enthusiasts, who may have pushed the car harder than the average person? The upside is auto manufacturer’s now realize building quality products helps bolster their brand and foster return buyers. Reliability has become a major selling point, both when buying new and used.

Considering new transmission options should be part of the fun when car shopping. You have the opportunity to try something new, something that may make your daily drives a little more interesting. Before you know it, you’ll be thinking of yourself as an enthusiast.

Andy Mrozinski
Mota Blog Contributor
Ridestory.com

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Out with the old, in with the…reconditioned??????

Question: “What does it mean when an engine is reconditioned? Tell me about warranties.”


When an engine is worn out on the inside but still usable mechanically it can be removed from the car it is in and be re-manufactured, re-conditioned or rebuilt. This is especially prevalent in rare cars and engines and in older American made engines. The reason for this is that in rare cars and engines where parts are hard to find it may not be possible to find a new engine to replace one that is worn out because they haven’t been made for a while. American engines (i.e. Motown V-8s from the 50s-80s) were typically overbuilt in the engine block but suffered when it came to the durability of things like cylinder sleeves and piston rings so instead of buying a new engine you could rebuild the one you had for way less money.

The terms re-built, re-conditioned and re-manufactured are all marketing terms usually used to mean the same or similar thing. What this means is that there is no set standard for these engines, any two manufacturers will have differing standards regarding what is required to be replaced and what is not. Typically during a re-build, re-man or re-con the engine is returned or repaired to near factory new conditions. This means usually, but not always; new piston rings, valves, bearings and gaskets. Depending on the shop, they may replace the pistons, connecting rods and rocker arms. This all depends on the experience and thoroughness of the shop

Here are some of the good and bad things about re-engines…They are a lot less expensive than a completely new engine and usually they will run just fine. Unfortunately, without a set standard of what each of the terms requires, it is a roll of the dice what you are going to get. Typically you will get what you pay for. A high end shop that charges more and has a good reputation will typically change out a part if it is anything but pristine. A lower end shop will typically bypass changing parts if they feel that it is serviceable. A really bad shop will not change the parts and tell you they did, knowing full well you probably aren’t going to be checking to see if you have new valve rockers or connecting rods.

A re-engine will usually come with a warranty. Typically 12months or 12000 miles but it varies between 30 days and 1000 miles and 3 years and 30000 miles. Typically dealerships offer the longest warranties.

What does a warranty cover? The warranty covers only what the shop repaired or replaced, and only defects in materials and workmanship. So if you crash into a tree, don’t expect them to warranty your engine. However, if you just got a re-man engine back from the shop and it throws a rod it will typically be covered. Always get your warranty in writing and make sure that you keep a copy.

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Buying a Car For a Teen Driver: Some Tips & Ideas

When I was learning to drive my dad took my out in an empty field in a '47 Willys Jeep that was painted school bus yellow. Seems that my dad had bought it from the local school superintendent who had the Jeep painted every year when they were repainting the school buses. But that was off road time: learning how to start, stop, change gears, how a choke works (like algebra, I never used that knowledge again). When it came time to choose a car that would be mine-all-mine my parents went through the usual list:

1. Sherman Tank
2. Golf Cart
3. Slightly used smaller car
4. Moped
   

Now this was 25 years ago and I ended up with what was behind door #3: a 1980 Honda Prelude (that I named Erma, in case you are interested). It was red, had a sunroof and was much more safe than the '67 Mustang convertible I preferred.

Flash forward and my daughter is now 14 and so I am having to start thinking about what I would want her to drive and the options are pretty darn similar to the choices that my parents had:

1. Monstrous SUV
2. New compact car
   
3. Slightly used smaller car
4. Scooter

Let's break these down into their pros and cons for teen drivers:

SUV Pros: These are safe if hit by a smaller car, a compact car or a scooter. They are inexpensive these days due to the price of gas. Teen drivers have better visibility behind the wheel and can be seen better. Kid can roll like a gangsta.
Cons: Too many seats means too many teens which can cause distractions for the driver. Fuel is going to be very expensive. If the teen hits something/someone, damage will be higher because if the weight and size of the SUV. Your kid will look like a gangsta.

Compact Car Pros: New cars will have the latest in safety. Very fuel efficient. Shiny and properly maintained could last through college. Less room = less kids = less distractions.
Cons: Size makes them difficult to see. New cars cost more. Dings happen and maintenance issues may arise with newer models. Not suitable for teens who play the tuba or the double bass.

Used Car Pros: Will have up to date safety features if less than 5 years old. More car for the money with amenities. Dings and scrapes will hurt less because it didn't cost as much. Your kid won't drive a nicer car than you.
Cons: Could have unknown maintenance issues. Probably won't last through college. Won't have that new car *BLING*. Kid might decide to invest in a huge spoiler.

Scooter Pros: Fuel efficient. Easy to maintain. No chance of hurting a passenger. Parking is easy. Your kid will get a label. I promise.
Cons: C'mon! Its a kid on a scooter in grown up traffic!

My daughter wants the scooter and that might work for us because we are only 6 blocks from her high school but new California laws say that she has to have a motorcycle license so she will be without wheels until she is 16. Major bummer for her! (that so dates me!)

Honestly, I like my Twitter buddy Snosnap's idea: he bought himself a 2003 Scion xB that he is tuning to his kid in a man's heart's content and is planning on saving it for his son's first car. That won't be for another 7 years but as he recently told me, "I drive it because I love it, but I do also want to keep it running 'til my son can drive. It's a Toyota, it should last :)"

I like his logic. Think Little Miss Motor Mouth will like a 1999 BMW Z3 Coupe and I can upgrade?

Michelle Naranjo

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How to Stay Cool and Save Gas

With American drivers suddenly looking for every way to save on the cost of driving, I thought I would revisit an old question,

“Which is more efficient, air conditioning or open windows?”

I first ran into this question while in college at the University of Michigan. I had a roommate who had heard that the refrigerant used in air conditioning systems was bad for the environment so he went the whole hot and humid summer without turning on his car’s air conditioner. Of course, he didn’t realize that Freon (this was before it was replaced with R-134a as a refrigerant in cars) isn’t actually released into the atmosphere when you run your A/C. Air conditioning runs in a closed loop and the environmental concern about the chemicals comes when some is accidentally released during servicing or if the system develops leaks… ironically most likely to occur after long periods of disuse. Running the A/C system distributes lubricating oils to the seals in the system so an unused air conditioner could develop leaks.
Of course, when faced with this information he changed the topic to say that it was more efficient to drive with the windows open because air conditioning makes the engine work harder. Ah, perhaps he had a point? Frankly, I didn’t have an answer.

Years later, I was working on the GM EV1 (electric car) program. If you didn’t know, this was the most aerodynamic production vehicle ever offered for sale with a coefficient of drag of 0.19. Since the car carried so little energy on board (the 1,200 lbs of lead-acid batteries provided the energy capacity of about ½ gallon of gasoline… providing about 60 miles of driving range) every step was taken to minimize the use of that energy. Besides weight savings to conserve energy when accelerating, air drag is the biggest, well, drag when driving at speed. As an example, I was once told that they didn’t use a mast-style radio antenna because it would have cost nearly a mile of range.

Anyway, we often had to drive the cars around Los Angeles and Phoenix for various events and the question arose whether we were better off using the A/C or opening the windows for maximizing range. There was no hesitation from the engineers: They said that we should make ourselves comfortable and use the A/C with closed windows when driving over 55 mph. I wish I had this information at hand when I was sweating in my roommate’s car on a 90 degree Michigan day!

Why is this the case? Well, while running the A/C does put a drag on your efficiency, running with the windows down does as well. It isn’t that simple, though. The aerodynamic drag varies with your speed. Air drag increases exponentially as speed increases, so driving 75 mph requires much more energy than driving 55 (sorry, Sammy Hagar).

At freeway speeds, this drag becomes greater than the cost of running the air conditioning compressor.

While perusing the web, I came across a study by the Society of Automotive Engineers (PDF) that looked at this exact question. They found that at high temperatures the cost of running the A/C was between 5% and 10%. However, the drag caused by running with the windows down at 68 mph (110 Km/h) varied from 8% to 20%. The lower number was for SUVs… basically, cars with bad aerodynamics in the first place suffer less from the effects of opening the windows. The 20% number was for a regular sedan. Though they didn’t disclose what type they used, they do indicate that it was a large sedan with a V8 engine. A really aerodynamic car like a Honda Insight or a sleek coupe would be effected even more.

So the bottom line is that around town, you are better off with the windows open but once at speed you should close your windows even if it means turning on your air conditioner.
If you drive a Hummer or a Mercedes G-Wagon with the aerodynamics of a brick… well it doesn’t really matter. Just go buy Exxon stock.

Of course, driving while suffering from heat stroke isn’t good either, so here are some other hints about staying cooler if you must run your air conditioner around town:

• Try to park under cover or use a window shade. The cooler your car is when you get in the less you’ll need to run the A/C to cool it down.
• In the same vein, if your car is hotter inside than the outside air, open your windows before turning on your air conditioner.
• Max A/C (a.k.a. recirculated air) isn’t always the best way to cool down. Again, if the air inside of your car is hotter than the air outside, you’re just running super-heated air through your A/C system. Use the fresh air setting until the interior temperature is lower than the air outside.
  

Steve Haas

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I've got gas, and you can too! Getting Better Gas Mileage by a Mechanic

Question: I can’t afford a new car, and the price of gas is killing me. How can I get the most mileage out of the car I already own?

This question was asked of me recently as the price of gasoline is above four dollars and the price of diesel requires you to take a second mortgage out on your home before tanking up. Obviously, everyone doesn’t have the financial means to purchase a new vehicle, even though OPEC seems to think we do. Thus I will list the things you can do and have done to maximize your mpg.

First off, I would like to preface this with a no-nonsense disclaimer. You will not get 50mpg out of a carbureted big block V-8 without spending more on the conversion than you would on fuel anyway. Is it possible? Yes. Is it expensive? Very. Is it so expensive that it is probably out of reach for someone who can’t afford a new car? Yes. So…the following is a list of things you can do to improve your gas mileage without breaking the bank.

Keep your tires fully inflated to the tire sidewall pressure. (where it says XXpsi (cold) Tires that are low on air require more energy to turn because there is more rolling resistance between them and the ground. The more energy your engine has to use, the more fuel it will burn.

Lighten your vehicle. It is easier than you think. Go through your trunk and remove everything that you haven’t used within the last six months except the spare tire and jack. The less weight there is in your vehicle, the less power it takes to move it and the less fuel you will burn. If you have AAA coverage, you can take out the spare and the jack too but make sure to replace them before a long trip.

Use the air conditioning sparingly. The air conditioning system on a vehicle take a lot of energy away from the engine and burns a lot of fuel, so use it sparingly. If you are in city traffic, roll down your window instead. If you are on the highway turn the A/C on for a few minutes and then turn it off. Rolling down your window on late model cars while on the highway actually burns more fuel than running the air conditioning because of wind resistance.

Turn off your car. If you are waiting in a drive-thru or waiting for someone, turn off your car. There is an old saying that starting your car burns more fuel than just leaving it run. This is false. It also doesn’t cause that much more wear and tear on the engine so the greatest benefit is to turn the car off

Ease up on the throttle. Acceleration burns more gas than driving at a constant speed, so avoid fast starts and don't exceed the speed limit on the highway.

Drive conservatively. Leave a bit more distance between you and the person ahead of you in stop and go traffic. That way when the person in front of you stops you can take your foot off of the accelerator and coast for a bit. If you have left enough room then by the time you get to where you would have stopped anyway, the person in front of you has probably already sped up again. This has an added effect that it causes less wear to your braking system and actually helps clear up traffic because the person behind you will see that your brake lights not come on and will maintain a more consistent speed. Plus it is a safer way to drive because it give you more reaction distance should the person in front of you slam on their brakes.

Change your oil and air filter regularly but not your spark plugs. Huh? Don’t change my spark plugs? Your engine oil reduces friction in your engine, less friction means less energy used to keep the engine running so less fuel used. Your air filter, when it is dirty, can cause the engine to run a little rich causing you to lose power and burn more fuel. As for the spark plugs…New spark plugs have less resistance to make a spark than old ones as old ones have built up carbon on them from burnt fuel. That extra resistance causes a hotter spark to overcome the resistance of the carbon deposits on the electrodes, which causes the fuel/air mix to burn hotter and causes the ignition timing to advance very slightly. Which will produce a bit more power and a bit less fuel consumption. So only change your spark plugs if one or more is not working.

Get a tune up. Your local mechanic (or you) can perform a tune up on your car that will make the engine run more efficiently and useless fuel. The typical tune up consists of: New PCV valve, new EGR valve, oil and filter change, re-time the engine and adjust the valves.

Lube your drive train. Your local mechanic (or you) can perform a full drive train lube and service which consists of removing and replacing the differential and transmission oil and lubricating the suspension, driveshaft and steering linkages. This will reduce friction in the drive train, requiring less energy to make things move. It will also cause your bearings, bushings and seals to last longer.

Service your bearings. Your local mechanic can service your axle bearings which will remove a lot of friction from your drive train. It is not uncommon to get 30-70 more miles per tank of fuel with new or serviced bearings. Since this usually requires removing the wheels, hubs, jackshafts and brake assemblies I recommend having a professional mechanic do this service unless you know what you are doing. If your bearings are sealed cartridge bearings, have them replaced. If they are loose “cup and cone” or “cup and race” bearings, have them inspected, cleaned, lubed and re-installed or replaced if necessary. Ensure the mechanic uses a torque wrench to achieve proper bearing pre-load (a lot of them just tighten until the wheel doesn’t turn and then loosen ¼ turn, this is incorrect)


Finally, if you just need to go up to the store on the corner, or run a quick and close errand, consider walking, biking, roller-skating, jogging, walking on your hands, riding a scooter or skateboarding instead of using your car. Even the most efficient hybrid car in the world gets worse fuel mileage than you do.


Grimy Handshakes,
The Motachanic

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Fuel Saving Tips that Make Cents: Saving Money & Being Green

This is David Denberg, one of The Many Mouths of Mota. Today, I am posting as MotaGreen.

Monday, June 16, the national average per gallon of regular gas reached $4.08, the highest ever recorded in US history. Given rising demand trends and stagnant supply it doesn’t seem like oil prices are coming down, which means more money out of our pockets to live the same way we did a year ago. There are solutions that won’t necessarily solve America’s larger foreign oil dependency problems, but can save us as individuals some money.

Five things I did without spending more than five dollars increased my fuel efficiency from 15-30%, which translates into $0.60 to $1.20 per gallon of gas used. Not only can you save yourself money by embracing these simple steps, you’re reducing your carbon footprint. For those who don’t want to accept the general consensus of global warming, the financial savings should be enticing enough. For all you believers, what better way to say you’re doing your part than by reducing emissions of your vehicle and saving money which can be put towards other environmentally friendly improvements.

1. There is very little I love more than feeling the true power of my engine kick into action and propel me from 0-60 as fast as possible. Despite this joy, I recently changed my driving habits because this truly kills gas efficiency. I didn’t really mind when gas was $2/gallon, but those days are long gone. The realization was solidified when it cost me sixty-two dollars for a full tank that, three years ago, cost only twenty-eight dollars. Changing one’s driving habits is the single most influential factor when improving your MPG, and it’s completely free. It requires a shift in driving mentality, which isn’t always easy, but the rewards are worthwhile.
2. While in the gas station I decided to check my tire pressure and was shocked to see they had deflated considerably since my last check several months ago. Incorrect tire pressure by only 5 psi can reduce MPG by 10% and cause greater wear and tear on your tires, costing you more to drive than it should. Simple things that commonsense would suggest can increase your MPG by several gallons. Not driving with unnecessary weight in your car for example, for each 100lbs MPG goes down by 1-2 miles per gallon.
3. For highway driving, cruise control at a comfortable speed can increase efficiency an additional 1-2 miles per gallon.
4. Car companies consider aerodynamics when designing, so should you! If you have a rack on your car or some other object that obstructs wind flow you might want to consider how often you use it, and if it merits permanent placement.
5. Lastly, it is imperative that you use gas only when it’s needed! Sounds simple, but so many people leave their car running for too long, anytime you idle over 30 seconds it is using more energy than re-starting the car. In a long line at the fast food drive thru? Turn off your engine!
   

In total these steps took about 1 hour and can save you hundreds of dollars every year. There are other ways to astronomically reduce your fuel consumption, though it requires a much larger investment. For the time being, I’m happy with my increased efficiency, at virtually no cost.

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Tips For Selling Your Used Car – Showing it Off

So you want to sell your car yourself. There are certainly a number of great benefits to doing so, primary being the thousands of dollars you would leave on the table for the dealer if you traded it in. However, there are a few questions most first-timers commonly have:

1. Where do I advertise it?
2. How do I present it well?
3. What should I do when someone wants to come and drive it?
4. What should I do when someone wants to buy it (deposit and payment)?
5. What do I do about all of the paperwork?

These issues can certainly seem daunting, but they needn’t be. Let’s take them one at a time.

Pt. 3 – The Test Drive

Even with the increase in long-distance sales on the Internet, you will likely receive interest from local buyers who want to take advantage of their proximity to see your car in person. There are a few primary concerns I usually hear from inexperienced sellers

• How do I protect my privacy?
• How protect my personal safety?
• How do I protect my car?

When you sell a car yourself, a certain amount of privacy is lost. Unless you use a service like Mota’s Valet Program you will likely need to at least give out an email address and phone number. When you schedule a test drive it’s likely that you’ll need to give out your home address. Keep in mind, however, that none of this information is really dangerous or different than what one can find out about you by picking up a phone directory or doing a basic Web search. Until you start the paperwork process, the buyer will likely have little more than your phone number and first name, after all.

But, should you have an interested buyer meet you at home at a public location? This question doesn’t have a totally clear-cut answer. Many reputable buyers have good reasons for wanting to know more about the person who owned the car before them. They may want to see how the car was stored, particularly for classic cars, and get an idea about how you maintained it. Additionally, some buyers may be nervous about coming to visit in a strange location since it’s possible that they may be carrying cash for the purchase of the car or at least for a potential deposit. Do, however, remove as much personal detritus from the car as possible. A cleaner car will make a better impression and all of that spare change won’t be rattling around in the glove box. But more importantly, you’ll make sure that personal papers, payment books, checks, and other random items that accumulate over the years won’t be giving more information away than you intend to.

My suggestion is to offer a location that’s most convenient and take care of yourself by ensuring that you aren’t alone. If your buyer wants to look at the car during work hours and your place of business is conducive, offer to meet there. I’ve met people at my office on occasion and it worked well. They learned that I was a reputable person with a real office. We even had access to a copy machine so that we could make duplicates of the signed sales agreement. On weekends, home usually works best for me for a very particular reason… some of your prospective buyers are simply not going to show up and you don’t want to waste your time waiting in the parking lot of the local supermarket all day.

This brings me to some general tips about test drives:

• When you schedule appointments, get the caller’s name and phone number.
• Call the buyer the evening before or a few hours before the appointment to confirm.

• This ensures that the phone number that they gave you works, making it less likely that they have intentions other than a safe vehicle transaction.

• It also gives them a chance to let you know that they won’t be coming before you spend your Saturday afternoon waiting around

• If possible, don’t meet the buyer alone. Have your significant other around the house or ask a friend to hang out for a while. At the very least, give someone else the name and phone number for the person you are meeting.

When it comes to the actual drive, you need to decide if you want to accompany the potential buyer in the car. If you have a bad feeling about their driving ability, for example if it’s a younger driver, go with them to protect your vehicle. This also works well if you have an older or special car about which there may be a lot of operational questions. Typically, however, from a personal safety perspective you may prefer letting your buyer take the car on his or her own assuming that you follow the following procedure:

• Ask to see their driver’s license.

• Look it over carefully to make sure it’s theirs and that it’s valid and not expired. At the very least, you need to make sure that they are licensed to drive a car… remember, it’s still insured in your name and you are liable for any damage that’s caused by the car.

• Ask to hold on to their license until they return from the test drive.

• If you have access to a copy machine or an all-in-one printer/copy/fax, do what dealers do and make a photo copy of the license before they go.

• Ask to hold on to the keys to their car that’s parked in front of your home.

• Of course, this assumes that it’s actually something of value.

• Alternatively, ask to hold their wallet or keys as some collateral until they return.

• Set an expectation for the length of the drive.

• In most cases, 10-15 minutes should suffice for a decent drive that includes a bit of freeway.

• Suggest a driving route that includes a good mix (or even hand them a list of simple directions to follow if they aren’t familiar with the area).

• Make your expectations clear, for example “See you in about 15 minutes.”

• Ask if they have a cell-phone handy and provide them with your number again so that they can call if they get lost or have questions.

In most cases, the test driving process should be friendly and uneventful. However, remember that this is your car and you reserve the right to refuse a test drive. Follow your feelings, your “gut” is usually correct.

Steve Haas

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New Look, More Writers, Exciting Stuff Coming At Mota!

It has been a while since we posted anything but after putting our heads together (sometimes it was more like a head *bump*) we have several exciting new developments coming next week!

The first phase will have this same look but additions to the writers posting here. Miss Mota Mouth has taken early retirement and although I (Michelle Naranjo) will still be contributing here, I am proud to be joined by a carefully selected group of very talented automotive writers. We come from diverse motoring backgrounds and hope to be informative across several different categories including green issues, finance, insurance, buying, selling, reviews and even a few high profile events!

The next phase will have a whole new look that I am so excited about because it will give us the ability to show what we can do so much better!

So keep checking back- your experts on buying and selling are coming soon!

XOO,Michelle

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